This past weekend I tackled a top-load washing machine repair on a 10 year-old unit. There was a small leak around the drive shaft that led me to believe the tub seal was leaking from under the spin basket (inner tub). Looking at the parts breakout, it didn’t look too difficult – that was the first clue; most repairs like this are harder than they seem.
The aluminum nut that holds the inner tub to the transmission hub (lower portion of the drive shaft) is 1-11/16 inches; a big nut to crack and only the beginning of the repair. I assumed I could bypass the purchase of the special spanner wrench for this nut, thinking I have enough wrenches to do most any job. That was the second bad assumption – there must be a reason why they make a special wrench for just this occasion. So, from here on you’ll get a brief tour of pliers and wrenches as I dug through the toolbox.
First out of the toolbox was my trusty Channellock pliers (#440 12 inch Tongue and Groove Plier). This tool has all the scars of decades of service. I figured that even if the nut was stubborn, using a persuader on the backside would add an extra nudge. Since the tub area is so narrow, I couldn’t get a level grip. The spanner wrench would have spanned the entire width of the tub (for better leverage) with the hex cutout in the center.
When that didn’t work, I started looking at some other likely candidates in the toolbox. Next up was my newer Crescent 10” Dura-Plyer (LB810 8-Inch and 10-Inch Set) which spreads out to a 1-3/4 inch opening yet has a short set of handles (10 inches) for tight places. Now I am level across the nut, and repeat the tap and tug process of freeing the nut. No joy!
Even though the nut is aluminum, my next route looked like a cold chisel and hammer; I figured I could afford a few whacks to break it loose as long as I am careful not to deform it, or the casting below. Since I had read a few stories of people using a 2 lb. mallet to break these loose, I wasn’t surprised by the stubbornness. I purchased a replacement nut in advance just in case the damage was beyond recovery; the cost of the nut was also 1/5 the cost of the spanner wrench (which I deemed a one-time use tool in this case).
Before I begin hammering away, I go looking for any other tool to use on the nut. That’s when I dug deeper into the plumbing part of the toolbox and pulled out my sink drain wrench (Superior Tool Company #03845). This is a very cool tool; anyone who does household plumbing should have one of these wrenches. Although it reminds me of a scorpion about to strike, it works on just about everything around a sink or drain. And, I pulled out the hand ‘socket’ wrench I use for pulling hot water heater elements. I figured one of these might help me free the nut. No such luck; none of these fit the nut.
While at the local Lowes Home Improvement - on another errand to distract me from the job at hand - I spotted a tool I had not seen before. It’s an adjustable combination wrench (#03840) that spans 1” to 3” and has a short, comfort grip handle to fit in tight places. It appeared to be another good addition from Superior Tool.
While attempting to use it, on this repair, I was less encouraged by the result. Once you set the nut size with a thumb wheel, you tighten a bolt and wing nut to hold it tight. With the slightest of pressure on this stubborn nut, the wrench would quickly lose its setting and I would have to start the process all over again.
I could easily make the argument that it’s not suited for this application, since it’s probably more for doing light duty on drains, baskets, and basins. A little extra money and engineering might be in order to put a better locking mechanism than a bolt and wing nut (that could easily come apart, get lost, and hardly holds a size setting). I quickly put it aside.
In the end, it all worked out; a few words uttered, much sweat, and aggressive persuasion tore the nut loose. If this were a regular repair event, the spanner wrench would be the tool of choice. I can also see where this repair could reach the point of the cost of labor and parts, would near the cost of a new, low-end washing machine. From my vantage point, after doing this on my own, the repair pros deserve what they charge for this repair.
p.s. Any of the tools mentioned here, with the exception of the spanner wrench (special order from your favorite appliance parts dealer), can probably be purchased from your local hardware store or home improvement center.